The Deimatic Socks have only been available previously as a paid pattern. Now, you can find it here as a free pattern, too. If you’d rather have a printable version without ads, the paid version is still available on Ravelry and Etsy.
This pattern is Day 22 of my 2024 Digital Advent Calendar.
Introduction
Some species of octopus, when frightened, will exhibit a sudden change in coloration to confuse or distract a predator. This allows the octopus time to escape. When an animal uses this technique to protect itself, it’s called deimatic behavior.
The Deimatic Socks are inspired by the majestic octopus, which also happens to be the emblem of Sea Change Fibers, who provided the yarn for this design. These socks are knit from the cuff down with a 1×1 twisted rib cuff. They feature front and back panels of cabled coin lace that twists back and forth. There are two columns of coin lace and two panels on each sock, for a total of eight columns per pair of socks–just like the eight tentacles of an octopus. The heel is constructed with a classic heel flap and gusset for the snuggest and most customizable fit, and the socks end with a wedge toe.
I try my very best to make sure that all of my patterns are error-free and easy to follow. If you have any trouble with this pattern, please let me know! Please send help requests to help@abeeinthebonnet.com.
And of course, if you share photos of your project on social media, I’d love to see them! Please tag your photos with #DeimaticSocks and #ABITBKnits to share with others.
Pattern Specs
| SIZES | S, M, L Finished sock dimensions: 7” (18 cm), 8” (20 cm), 9” (23 cm) circumference (Note: most people like their socks snug, so choose a finished sock size that is slightly smaller than your actual foot) |
| MATERIALS | Fingering weight yarn, 300-400 yds (274-366 m) Sample shown knit in Sea Change Fibers Littoral Merino Fingering, 100% Falklands merino wool, 435 yds (398 m) per 3.5 oz (100g), colorway Lunar Eclipse |
| GAUGE | 4” (10 cm) square = 34 stitches x 41 rows in stockinette |
| NEEDLES | One set of needles for your preferred style of small-circumference knitting in a size to match gauge listed above Suggested needle size: US 1.5 (2.5 mm) |
| TOOLS | One stitch marker for beginning of round; optional additional markers between pattern repeatsTapestry needle for weaving in ends |
| SKILL LEVEL | Intermediate Techniques: cables, increases, decreases, knitting in the round, Kitchener stitch grafting |
Abbreviations
- 3/1 LPC = slip three stitches onto cable needle and hold to front. Purl one stitch. Knit three stitches from cable needle.
- 3/1 RPC = slip one stitch onto cable needle and hold to back. Knit three stitches. Purl one stitch from cable needle.
- 3/1/3 LPC = slip four stitches onto cable needle and hold to front. Knit three stitches. Purl one stitch from cable needle. Knit three stitches from cable needle.
- Cluster 3 sts = insert right needle purlwise into the third stitch on the left needle. Slip that stitch over the first two stitches. K1, yo, k1.
- k2tog = knit two stitches together
- k = knit
- ktbl = knit through the back loop
- p = purl
Pattern Instructions
Using your preferred cast-on method, cast on 60 (68, 76) stitches. Join for knitting in the round and take care not to twist. Place a marker at the join to mark the end of the round.
Work 12 rounds of k1tbl, p1 ribbing.
Leg Instructions:
Work the following forty-round repeat or see Chart A at the end of this pattern. Then work Rounds 1-18 one more time.
Round 1: *K6 (8, 10), p1, cluster 3 sts, p9, cluster 3 sts, p1, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 2: *K6 (8, 10), p1, k3, p9, k3, p1, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 3: *K6 (8, 10), p1, 3/1 LPC, p7, 3/1 RPC, p1, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 4: *K6 (8, 10), p2, k3, p7, k3, p2, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 5: *K6 (8, 10), p2, cluster 3 sts, p7, cluster 3 sts, p2, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 6: *K6 (8, 10), p2, k3, p7, k3, p2, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 7: *K6 (8, 10), p2, 3/1 LPC, p5, 3/1 RPC, p2, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 8: *K6 (8, 10), p3, k3, p5, k3, p3, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 9: *K6 (8, 10), p3, cluster 3 sts, p5, cluster 3 sts, p3, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 10: *K6 (8, 10), p3, k3, p5, k3, p3, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 11: *K6 (8, 10), p3, 3/1 LPC, p3, 3/1 RPC, p3, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 12: *K6 (8, 10), p4, k3, p3, k3, p4, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 13: *K6 (8, 10), p4, cluster 3 sts, p3, cluster 3 sts, p4, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 14: *K6 (8, 10), p4, k3, p3, k3, p4, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 15: *K6 (8, 10), p4, 3/1 LPC, p1, 3/1 RPC, p4, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 16: *K6 (8, 10), p5, k3, p1, k3, p5, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 17: *K6 (8, 10), p5, cluster 3 sts, p1, cluster 3 sts, p5, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 18: *K6 (8, 10), p5, k3, p1, k3, p5, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 19: *K6 (8, 10), p5, 3/1/3 LPC, p5, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 20: *K6 (8, 10), p5, k3, p1, k3, p5, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 21: *K6 (8, 10), p5, cluster 3 sts, p1, cluster 3 sts, p5, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 22: *K6 (8, 10), p5, k3, p1, k3, p5, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 23: *K6 (8, 10), p4, 3/1 RPC, p1, 3/1 LPC, p4, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 24: *K6 (8, 10), p4, k3, p3, k3, p4, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 25: *K6 (8, 10), p4, cluster 3 sts, p3, cluster 3 sts, p4, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 26: *K6 (8, 10), p4, k3, p3, k3, p4, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 27: *K6 (8, 10), p3, 3/1 RPC, p3, 3/1 LPC, p3, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 28: *K6 (8, 10), p3, k3, p5, k3, p3, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 29: *K6 (8, 10), p3, cluster 3 sts, p5, cluster 3 sts, p3, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 30: *K6 (8, 10), p3, k3, p5, k3, p3, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 31: *K6 (8, 10), p2, 3/1 RPC, p5, 3/1 LPC, p2, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 32: *K6 (8, 10), p2, k3, p7, k3, p2, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 33: *K6 (8, 10), p2, cluster 3 sts, p7, cluster 3 sts, p2, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 34: *K6 (8, 10), p2, k3, p7, k3, p2, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 35: *K6 (8, 10), p1, 3/1 RPC, p7, 3/1 LPC, p1, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 36: *K6 (8, 10), p1, k3, p9, k3, p1, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Round 37: *K6 (8, 10), p1, cluster 3 sts, p9, cluster 3 sts, p1, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Rounds 38 – 40: *K6 (8, 10), p1, k3, p9, k3, p1, k7 (9, 11); repeat from * to end of round.
Heel:
This sock uses a heel flap and gusset for a snug, highly customizable fit. You’ll work your heel flap using the last 30 (34, 38) stitches of your sock. Work in pattern across the first 30 (34, 38) stitches.
Now begin working your heel flap as follows:
Row 1 (RS): *Slip 1 purlwise with yarn in back, k1, repeat from * to end of row.
Row 2 (WS): Slip 1 purlwise, purl to end of row.
Work these two rows until you have 30 (34, 38) rows total, ending on a WS row.
Now it’s time to turn the heel. For each slip stitch in the following instructions, slip your stitch purlwise with yarn held in back (RS rows) or front (WS rows). Follow these steps:
- K17 (19, 21), ssk, k1, turn.
- Sl 1, p5, p2tog, p1, turn.
- Sl 1, knit to within first st from gap, ssk, k1, turn.
- Sl 1, purl to within first st from gap, p2tog, p1, turn.
- Repeat steps 3 and 4 until you have used up all the stitches in your heel flap, ending on a WS row.
Gusset: Knit half of the heel stitches and place marker. Rounds will now start in the middle of the heel flap. Knit remaining heel stitches, and pick up and knit one stitch in each of the slipped edge stitches along the heel flap. Pick up and knit one additional stitch where heel flap and instep join. Work in established pattern across the instep stitches. Pick up and knit one stitch where instep and heel flap join, and then pick up and knit one stitch in each slipped stitch along the edge of the other side of the heel flap. Work remaining stitches from heel.
Work one round, knitting the sole stitches and working the instep stitches in pattern.
Round 1: Knit to 3 stitches before instep, k2tog, k1, work instep stitches in pattern, k1, ssk, knit to end of round.
Round 2: Work one round, knitting the sole stitches and working the instep stitches in pattern.
Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 until there are 60 (68, 76) stitches total on your needles.
Foot:
Remove end of round marker and knit to beginning of instep. Replace end of round marker.Continue working in established pattern across instep and knitting across sole until you have completed three total repeats of Rounds 1-40. Then continue repeating rounds 37-40 until foot measures 2” (5 cm) shorter than your desired length. If you have sufficient length remaining to work rounds 1-19 one more time, you can also choose that option.
To determine the length of your sock’s foot, measure from the outside of your heel to the tip of your toes. Compare that to the length of your sock from the deepest part of the heel to the working edge.
Toe:
When you’ve finished knitting the body of your sock, you’ll need to close the toe.
- Instep stitches (first 30 (34, 38) stitches of the round): k1, ssk, k24 (28, 32), k2tog, k1. Repeat for sole stitches (second 30 (34, 38) stitches of the round).
- Knit all stitches in the round.
- Repeat steps 1 and 2 until you have 24 (28, 28) stitches total. Note that for each repeat, you will have two fewer stitches between your ssk and your k2tog than you did on the previous repeat.
- Move your stitches onto two needles, 12 (14, 14) per needle, with the sole stitches on one needle and the instep stitches on the other.
- Graft your toe together using Kitchener stitch.
Break yarn, weave in ends securely, and block.
Chart A
Note: For Size S, work each row of Chart A two times for a complete round on the leg portion of your sock. Once you get to the foot, work Chart A one time and knit the remaining stitches in the round. For Sizes M (and L), add 2 (4) knit stitches on each side of the chart.
